Chinker’s Edge FAQs

• Q: Can I chink with Conceal?

  A: Yes, if the chink line is smaller than 2″ wide. Anything wider should be filled with Chinker’s Edge or Log Jam.

• Q: Can I go over the top on my current chinking with Log Jam or Chinker’s Edge?

  A: Yes, as long as you first thoroughly clean the surface before applying more chinking. If you have old Portland Cement-type mortar in the joints, be sure to remove any that is crumbling and falling out; however, if the mortar is in tact, simply tape over top with some clear packing tape and chink right over top. (Yes, you read that right – taping over it allows for proper joint design. Consult the Full Information Sheet for the chinking product you’re using for more details.)

• Q: Can I use Chinker’s Edge in a Snorkler?

  A: Yes! Just keep an eye on the stator to check for wear. Chinker’s Edge wears stators slightly more than Log Jam.

• Q: Can I use Log Builder or Conceal on a joint more than 2 inches wide?

  A: No. Log Jam or Chinker’s Edge are the best choices for gaps this wide. Log Builder and Conceal both work best in joints that range from 1/4″ to 2″ wide.

• Q: Do you think I can chink on my own?

  A: Yes. While it does take some practice to develop your skill, it is a task that most people can accomplish easily. Sashco’s Data Tec application instructions give detailed information to help you learn this craft.

• Q: How do I chink?

  A: Watch our videos on Log Jam and Chinker’s Edge application techniques. Also, be sure to read through the data tec sheet for the specific product you are using. There are easy-to-follow pictures and detailed application instructions.

• Q: What are your chinking and caulking products made of?

  A: Chinker’s Edge, Log Jam, Conceal and Log Builder are all water-based acrylic latex sealants.

• Q: What can I use to clean up if I get messy with the Log Builder, Conceal, Log Jam or Chinker’s Edge?

  A: While still wet, all these products clean up easily with water. Once completely dried, all are much harder to remove, and often need to be cut or scraped off of surfaces. If any dries on your hands, you can usually remove it by just rubbing your hands together, and it will roll up and off your skin. If that doesn’t work, citrus-based hand cleansers should do the trick.

• Q: What is chinking? Where do I chink instead of caulk?

  A: “Chinking” is now commonly thought of as a water-based, synthetic sealant that is textured like mortar and has considerable elasticity and flexibility. Twenty years ago, “chinking” was generally thought of as Portland cement-based mortar or grout that was applied to the joints between logs, reinforced with metal lath. The new chinking products, such as Log Jam and Chinker’s Edge, far out-perform the old type of chinking.

  Chinking can be used in most places where caulk would be used, but chinking is more commonly used in large joints between logs and when the building owner wants the nostalgic look of old-fashioned, textured cement mortar or grout.

• Q: What is the difference between chinking and caulking?

  A: “Chinking” in the log home industry has come to mean an elastic sealing material that looks like the old-fashioned Portland cement-based mortar in color and/or texture, used to seal the joints between logs. Chink lines can be fairly narrow or pretty wide. Backer rod or bond-breaking tape should always be used in back of the chink line in order to provide 2-point adhesion and allow the chinking to expand and contract to the maximum possible degree. Log Jam and Chinker’s Edge are both excellent chinking products.

  Caulking also generally has more elasticity than chinking products. Because of this, caulking works better in smaller joints (i.e. ¼” to 2” wide). Caulking can be used to fill the horizontal cracks (called checks), create a continuous caulking line between the log rows, or as a stacker during construction.

• Q: What is the difference between Log Jam and Chinker’s Edge?

  A: Log Jam and Chinker’s Edge are very similar in their chemical composition. The primary difference between them is that Chinker’s Edge is slightly thicker, making it a bit easier to tool./p>

• Q: What’s so great about Chinker’s Edge?

  A: We know that the biggest cost of a job is not in the products used, but in the labor to apply them.Chinker’s Edge is formulated to dramatically reduce the amount of time spent tooling the chinking. It cleans up very fast, requires much less misting and tooling, and still delivers incredible stretch to accommodate log movement.

  Another great thing about Chinker’s Edge is its compatibility with the white polystyrene backer board that is often used on Appalachian style log homes. Many chinking and caulking products have “plasticizers” in them that eventually (over a period of years) migrates into the backer board and “eats” it away, causing the chink line to cave in and warp in areas. Chinker’s Edge is made to be compatible with this backer board so that applicators can confidently use it and know that they won’t be called back years later to repair any warping. (Note: For best results, it is best to apply a bond-breaker tape to the polystyrene foam before applying the Chinker’s Edge — this provides the best in 2-point adhesion and allows the chinking to perform best.)

  Of course, we have the same great adhesion and early water resistance in Chinker’s Edge that we insist upon in all our products.

• Q: Will power washing damage my chinking?

  A: Our experience with Log Jam and Chinker’s Edge over many years show that this is generally not a problem. If the Log Jam was applied properly to begin with, the power washing will have little or no effect on the chinking (except to perhaps clean it up and remove a little surface dirt and make it look a little more like new!). Do note, however, that It is important to make sure that you don’t focus the high pressure water spray right at the edge of the chinking or caulking because it is possible that you could begin to lift it.