Conceal FAQs

• Q: Can I apply Conceal before I stain to get a better match?

  A: Possibly. It is best to apply the closest color Conceal after all staining is complete, so long as you’re using a compatible stain. Because most stains are relatively rigid, when they’re applied over a flexible material like Conceal, the stain will crack (unlike the Conceal) when the joint moves. When that happens, the Conceal will still be there, but the cracking stain will be over top. At least the first time around, it’s best to apply the caulk very last. Obviously, when it comes time to maintain your stain, you’ll have to stain over the caulk and just keep your eye out for any cracked stain over the caulking.

• Q: Can I chink with Conceal?

  A: Yes, if the chink line is smaller than 2″ wide. Anything wider should be filled with Chinker’s Edge or Log Jam.

• Q: Can I use Conceal on the interior of my home?

  A: Yes! Be sure to follow all proper application instructions as outlined in the Conceal Data Tec.

• Q: Can I use Log Builder or Conceal around gutters?

  A: No. Water-based products should not be used in areas that may experience large volumes of water. For this application, Sashco’s Lexel or Through the Roof are excellent choices and are available at Ace Hardware, True Value Hardware and Do-It-Best Centers nationwide.

• Q: Can I use Log Builder or Conceal on a joint more than 2 inches wide?

  A: No. Log Jam or Chinker’s Edge are the best choices for gaps this wide. Log Builder and Conceal both work best in joints that range from 1/4″ to 2″ wide.

• Q: Do I need to chink or caulk my “chinkless” style log home?

  A: Yes, at least in some areas – if not now, then later.

  Here’s why: Often, log home manufacturers design their homes to fit tightly together – no chink line is required. This is a look that appeals to many customers. Generally, when the logs are stacked, an “internal” seal is installed (either a bead of caulking between the logs, a butyl tape, or something similar) to insure a water – and air – tight home.

  Then, nature takes its course. As the logs dry out to their final moisture level, they move. This movement sometimes breaks the original internal seals between the logs allowing cold air, bugs, and water to come into the home. It is difficult to tell exactly where the seal is broken, so spot repairs are sometimes not effective. It is at this point that some homeowners choose to caulk the home between log courses to fully seal it up. Conceal is an ideal product for caulking these joints because it is textured and matched to the popular stain colors out there. So the Conceal caulking is truly “concealed” to insure the desired “chinkless” look.

  Also, as the logs dry out checks will appear and get bigger. These checks (on the home’s exterior) will need to be treated with Penetreat to prevent rot, stained to prime the inside surface, and then caulked (using backer rod behind the joint). Caulking these checks is essential to preventing rot, prolonging the life of the stain, and keeping water out of the home.

• Q: I have a full scribed (“chinkless”) log home. Do I need to caulk?

  A: Yes, at least in some areas – if not now, then later.

  Here’s why: Often, log home manufacturers design their homes to fit tightly together – no chink line is required. This is a look that appeals to many customers. Generally, when the logs are stacked, an “internal” seal is installed (either a bead of caulking between the logs, a butyl tape, or something similar) to insure a water – and air – tight home.

  Then, nature takes its course. As the logs dry out to their final moisture level, they move. This movement sometimes breaks the original internal seals between the logs allowing cold air, bugs, and water to come into the home. It is difficult to tell exactly where the seal is broken, so spot repairs are sometimes not effective. It is at this point that some homeowners choose to caulk the home between log courses to fully seal it up. Conceal is an ideal product for caulking these joints because it is textured and matched to the popular stain colors out there. So the Conceal caulking is truly “concealed” to insure the desired “chinkless” look.

  Also, as the logs dry out checks will appear and get bigger. These checks (on the home’s exterior) will need to be treated with Penetreat to prevent rot, stained to prime the inside surface, and then caulked (using backer rod behind the joint). Caulking these checks is essential to prevent rot, prolong the life of the stain, and keep water out of the home.

• Q: What are your chinking and caulking products made of?

  A: Chinker’s Edge, Log Jam, Conceal and Log Builder are all water-based acrylic latex sealants.

• Q: What can I use to clean up if I get messy with the Log Builder, Conceal, Log Jam or Chinker’s Edge?

  A: While still wet, all these products clean up easily with water. Once completely dried, all are much harder to remove, and often need to be cut or scraped off of surfaces. If any dries on your hands, you can usually remove it by just rubbing your hands together, and it will roll up and off your skin. If that doesn’t work, citrus-based hand cleansers should do the trick.

• Q: What is the difference between Log Builder and Conceal?

  A: Conceal is lightly textured and diffuses light, so the caulk “disappears”. Log Builder has no texture and gives a more shiny finish when dry.

• Q: What’s so great about Conceal?

  A: We have specially formulated Conceal with texture and natural looking pigments to allow the product to blend in with the most popular stain colors in the log hom industry. It means that you don’t know where the caulk ends and the log begins – it’s concealed.

  Conceal is also incredibly elastic. When used in conjunction with a bond breaker and applied according to recommendations, it can withstand some pretty extreme movement.

• Q: Which color of Conceal should I use to match my stain?

  A: Since every stain looks slightly different on each home, there is no set answer to this question. Instead, we would be happy to send you a Conceal color card so that you can see the choices for yourself and decide.

• Q: Will Log Builder or Conceal stick to stone and masonry where my fireplace attaches to my logs? Will it work where my aluminum flashing meets logs or metal roof meets logs?

  A: Yes, both will adhere very well to such stone and masonry. Your main concern should be that if the stone or masonry is made hot by the fireplace, then the sealant will likely not survive such high temperatures. Be sure to read the Data Tec for specific temperature ranges to ensure the product will work for you.

  Both products will generally adhere well to clean aluminum. Water based products should not be used in areas that may experience large volumes of water such as roofs, gutters, or flashings. For this application, Sashco’s Lexel or Through the Roof are excellent choices and are available at Ace Hardware, True Value Hardware and Do-It-Best Centers nationwide.