Penetreat FAQs

Q: Can I apply Penetreat on my dried out logs or wood?

A: Penetreat can be applied to wood surfaces, whether green or dry, that are bare. Penetreat will form a protective “shell” on the outer layer of the woodto a depth of about 1/2”. Keep in mind that, in order for Penetreat to maintain its potency, it must be covered with a good quality stain.
Q: Can I mix PeneTreat in with my stain?

A: No. PeneTreat is designed to be used only on bare wood and underneath a stain of some kind.
Q: Can I stain over Penetreat?

A: Yes. In fact, Penetreat has to be covered with stain in order to maintain its potency. Virtually all stains work well when applied over Penetreat.
Q: Do I have to fill all the tiny cracks?

A: It is good practice to seal with caulking or chinking (and backer rod) checks and cracks that are 1/4″ wide or wider, especially on the upper curvature of logs. Prior to sealing them, make sure to apply a good wood preservative (like Penetreat) to prevent insect and fungal damage. The very small micro-checks that are barely visible can usually be sealed adequately with whatever stain is applied to the surface of the logs. The most problematic checks are the “in-betweeners” – smaller than 1/4″ and larger than the micro-checks. Other than applying some wood preservatives to these types of checks, there is no really good way to treat these types of checks yet.
Q: Do I need to chink or caulk my “chinkless” style log home?

A: Yes, at least in some areas – if not now, then later.

Here’s why: Often, log home manufacturers design their homes to fit tightly together – no chink line is required. This is a look that appeals to many customers. Generally, when the logs are stacked, an “internal” seal is installed (either a bead of caulking between the logs, a butyl tape, or something similar) to insure a water – and air – tight home.

Then, nature takes its course. As the logs dry out to their final moisture level, they move. This movement sometimes breaks the original internal seals between the logs allowing cold air, bugs, and water to come into the home. It is difficult to tell exactly where the seal is broken, so spot repairs are sometimes not effective. It is at this point that some homeowners choose to caulk the home between log courses to fully seal it up. Conceal is an ideal product for caulking these joints because it is textured and matched to the popular stain colors out there. So the Conceal caulking is truly “concealed” to insure the desired “chinkless” look.

Also, as the logs dry out checks will appear and get bigger. These checks (on the home’s exterior) will need to be treated with Penetreat to prevent rot, stained to prime the inside surface, and then caulked (using backer rod behind the joint). Caulking these checks is essential to preventing rot, prolonging the life of the stain, and keeping water out of the home.
Q: Do I need to mask my windows and other fixtures when blasting?

A: Yes, it is recommended. Corn cob media is not as hard as glass media, and is not as prone to etching glass. However, with any media, even small contaminants or the occasional maverick piece that is larger than normal can etch windows and other fixtures, so it is recommended that you mask off everything that needs to be protected (glass, light fixtures, etc.) prior to blasting with any media.

One plus to masking before blasting is that, once in place, it provides the necessary protection of windows and other fixtures for applying PeneTreat and stain (both of which should be done within 2 weeks after blasting). This will help avoid unnecessary cleaning.
Q: Does Penetreat kill mildew?

A: No. Mildew is a type of fungi that exists on the surface of wood and does not actually attack or eat wood (although it can cause some discoloration of the wood surface). Penetreat’s great strength is its ability to control wood-destroying fungi that actually cause rot. Of course, Penetreat also helps to control many insects, which are killed when they ingest the treated wood. If you want to control mildew, you should use an additional mildewcide in your stain and clear coat. Sashco recommends Stay Clean I/E, available through Sashco distributors.
Q: How do I get the color stain I want on my log home?

A: Do a quality sample and try out several colors. Follow these guidelines when sampling:

1. Read all application instructions for the product you’re testing before applying it.
2. Due to the extreme transparency of all Sashco’s stains, the color of the stain will be influenced by the color of the underlying wood. Therefore, it is important to test the stain on your home to be certain that you get the color you want.
3. For extra protection against rot and insects, apply a borate-based wood preservative, such as Sashco’s PeneTreat, prior to staining.
4. Test the stain on an inconspicuous section of your home that has been surface prepped with the method that you will be using on the entire home.
5. Use the same application method you plan to use on your home (i.e. if you plan to spray on the stain, spray on the sample. If you can’t spray on the sample, brushing on 3 heavy coats is generally the equivalent of 2 sprayed on coats.)
6. Allow the sample to dry at least 24 hours for full color development.
7. If working with a contractor, don’t allow the contractor to stain until you have thoroughly discussed and demonstrated the look you want. Give him the sample to match.
8. Don’t stain the entire home before you verify that you’re achieving the look you want. If possible, be on site when staining begins so you can stop the process if the color isn’t coming out as you planned.
Q: How long do I wait after applying PeneTreat before I stain?

A: The wood must be dry – below 20% moisture level. The only way to verify this is with a moisture meter! We highly recommend that homeowners rent or buy a moisture meter to be sure that the wood really is dry before staining. Many times when a stain fails, we find out that it was applied to wet wood that was seemingly “dry enough”.

In a warm and dry climate when there has been no rain, generally 2 days is enough time for the Penetreat to dry before applying stain. However, it is important to note that any liquid that gets on the logs (including mixed Penetreat) can sit in a check or crack in the upper curvature of a log for several days before completely evaporating. While it sits in the check, the water soaks into the surrounding wood and creates localized areas of high moisture content, which can lead to localized areas of failed stain. Therefore, it is best to remove standing water from these checks and cracks with a shop-vac, dry rag or compressed air by at least the next day so the adjacent wood can dry out like the rest of the logs in a reasonable amount of time.
Q: How often do I have to use Penetreat?

A: Generally, just once – before the first stain is applied to the wood. However, if any wood becomes exposed for whatever reason, that exposed wood can permit some of the Penetreat to leach out when subjected to moisture. In this case, re-application of Penetreat to bare wood may be required. Penetreat will not penetrate through any coatings, so it should only be applied to bare wood – never stained wood.
Q: How should I sample stain? Where can I get samples?

A: Whisper Creek Log Homes is happy to provides stain samples both direct and through our resellers. Order several samples of stain. Mix each of them up very well prior to sampling! Then follow these simple instructions:

1. Read all application instructions for the product you’re testing before applying it.
2. Due to the extreme transparency of all Sashco’s stains, the color of the stain will be influenced by the color of the underlying wood. Therefore, it is important to test the stain on your home to be certain that you get the color you want.
3. For extra protection against rot and insects, apply a borate-based wood preservative, such as Sashco’s PeneTreat, prior to staining.
4. Test the stain on an inconspicuous section of your home that has been surface prepped with the method that you will be using on the entire home.
5. Use the same application method you plan to use on your home (i.e. if you plan to spray on the stain, spray on the sample. If you can’t spray on the sample, brushing on 3 heavy coats is generally the equivalent of 2 sprayed on coats.)
6. Allow the sample to dry at least 24 hours for full color development.
7. If working with a contractor, don’t allow the contractor to stain until you have thoroughly discussed and demonstrated the look you want. Give him the sample to match.
8. Don’t stain the entire home before you verify that you’re achieving the look you want. Be on site when staining begins so you can stop the process if the color isn’t coming out as you planned.
Q: I have a full scribed (“chinkless”) log home. Do I need to caulk?

A: Yes, at least in some areas – if not now, then later.

Here’s why: Often, log home manufacturers design their homes to fit tightly together – no chink line is required. This is a look that appeals to many customers. Generally, when the logs are stacked, an “internal” seal is installed (either a bead of caulking between the logs, a butyl tape, or something similar) to insure a water – and air – tight home.

Then, nature takes its course. As the logs dry out to their final moisture level, they move. This movement sometimes breaks the original internal seals between the logs allowing cold air, bugs, and water to come into the home. It is difficult to tell exactly where the seal is broken, so spot repairs are sometimes not effective. It is at this point that some homeowners choose to caulk the home between log courses to fully seal it up. Conceal is an ideal product for caulking these joints because it is textured and matched to the popular stain colors out there. So the Conceal caulking is truly “concealed” to insure the desired “chinkless” look.

Also, as the logs dry out checks will appear and get bigger. These checks (on the home’s exterior) will need to be treated with Penetreat to prevent rot, stained to prime the inside surface, and then caulked (using backer rod behind the joint). Caulking these checks is essential to prevent rot, prolong the life of the stain, and keep water out of the home.
Q: PeneTreat is a strong wood preservative. Does this mean it is very toxic?

A: No. Penetreat is disodium octaborate tetrahydrate. This chemical is very effective at stopping the fungus that causes rot. Also, Penetreat kills most wood boring insects. However, the product is fairly benign to humans and pets. Some skin or eye irritation can occur upon contact – be sure to wash with plenty of water. Also, do not spill a large amount of the solution onto your yard – plants may die if a significant amount is applied to them. Like any product or chemical you use on your log or wood home, use care and common sense when handling.
Q: Should I treat my home for insects?

A: Yes. Whenever possible, it is a good idea to apply an insecticide to your logs. We recommend using Sashco’s Penetreat for this purpose.
Q: What are the little white, sparkly crystals on my logs after I applied PeneTreat? How do I get rid of them?

A: These crystals sometimes appear after the application of Penetreat, especially on newly constructed denser species of wood that don’t allow as much penetration of the Penetreat. There is nothing to worry about – the whitish micro-flakes are just the crystallized Penetreat material. You will simply need to brush them off with a stiff brush or broom before you apply stain. Be sure to wear eye and respiratory protection when brushing the crystals from the wood.
Q: What can I do in the planning stage of my home to minimize maintenance later?

A: The best thing to do, first and foremost, is your homework! Don’t overlook the important things:

– As much as possible, locate your home on a site that affords some protection for the log walls from the weather.
– Construct roof overhangs that are wide (like 2-3 feet) to protect the walls from moisture, wind & provide a sort of “sun shade.”
– Keep the bottom course of logs at least 18” above the ground
– Plan your landscaping so that sprinklers do not splash on the log walls. In addition, shrubs and mulch should be kept at least 2 feet away from vertical surfaces.
– Find a log home supplier who uses a good design for the joints between the logs so that the joints can accommodate backer rod (which allows the caulking or chinking to perform as designed).
– Apply wood preservatives as early in the game as possible, such as Sashco’s Penetreat or TimBor. Wood that has been pressure treated with borates (like Penetreat or TimBor) are preferable.
– Make sure all the exterior finishing products that will be used (such as wood preservatives, stains, caulking and chinking) are all compatible with one another, and work as a system.
– Make sure when it comes time to apply the exterior finishing products that the moisture content of the wood is below 19%. Use a moisture meter to be certain! Also ensure that the surfaces are very well cleaned by media blasting or vigorous power washing, and the contractor understands fully how to properly apply each of the products to be used. (This means getting very detailed quotes from the contractors you are considering using for the job.)
– Thoroughly treat the log ends with borate wood preservatives, such as Sashco’s Penetreat. This means soaking the log ends 2-4 times with Penetreat solution (with a brush or sprayer) to get as much borate carried as far into the log as possible. For the lower courses of logs it might also be advisable to install some borate rods into the logs about 6-8 inches from the cut end, especially if the home is in a wetter climate.
– When finishing, plan to thoroughly seal the log ends with a water-repelling coating. Because the log ends absorb so much stain, it will probably require 2-4 coats of the coating to fully seal the surface and prevent moisture from being absorbed. The log ends that are most exposed to the weather should then be re-coated routinely (every 2-3 years) to make sure they are still maintaining their water-repellent properties.
Q: What is the best way to treat log ends?

A: The cut ends of logs can be an easy entry point for moisture to get into the interior of the logs – due to tendency of water to wick several inches up the log in the direction of the grain. The first line of defense these cut ends is to heavily treat them with PeneTreat and then soak them with several coats of stain to seal the open wood cells and prevent them from acting like “straws” for water. In areas of high moisture exposure, borate rods can also be used within 6 to 8 inches from the log end to provide a fungicide in the heart of the log in case the cut end winds up taking on significant moisture.
Q: What is the difference between Tim-bor and Penetreat?

A: Chemically, there is no difference. Both products are disodium octaborate tetrahydrate. Each product is EPA registered for different applications: Timbor for dip, spray, and pressure treating in a manufacturing facility, and PeneTreat for remedial applications (spray application to existing structures.)
Q: Why do I need to PeneTreat in this dry climate?

A: Even in dry climates fungi and insects can attack wood. Roof runoff and ground splash-back can frequently deliver large volumes of water to isolated regions of wood that, without a fungicide, can succumb to rot. And, of course, wood-boring insects are in all climates, and a defense against them is highly important. Penetreat will provide the defense you need against almost all of these insects.
Q: Will PeneTreat discolor my chinking or caulking?

A: No. Penetreat does not discolor chinking or caulking. It may dry on the surface of those products, leaving behind crystals that will need to be removed with a stiff bristled brush.
Q: Will Penetreat work if there is already stain on the logs?

A: As with all borate products, the answer is no. In order for PeneTreat to perform its intended function, it has to penetrate into bare, clean wood. If a coating exists on the wood surface, it acts as a barrier to the PeneTreat/water solution, prohibiting penetration and retention.